But the reality is that there are several more interesting lines and variations on the peak. Baker. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. We recommend training for Mount Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route at least 3-6 months in advance. You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength. You will do it all: hike through amazing scenery, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid at the top of Mount Shuksan. The latest climbing conditions reports are obtained from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and reports from other climbers. Mt. Click to read more about the Peaks of the North Cascadesin Washington State. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. My goal for the summer of 2022 was to reinvigorate my goal of leading alpine climbs; the last time I had led anything was back in 2016-2017; and at that time, I had led a few multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.7 but nothing truly alpine. Fisher Chimneys: Main Peak: 115: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. Very happy to be done with the chimney scrambling and have the helmets off. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Story captured by Kristen Connolly On July 7-8, a team of five climbers headed up the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades. 4 climbers)Length: 3 days + 1/2 day travel and prep Cost: $1767.00 per person - 1 Climber/1 Guide $1167.00 per person - 2 Climbers/1 Guide $1377.00 per person - 3 Climbers/2 Guides $1167.00 per person - 4 Climbers/2 GuidesDates: July 20-23, 2022 August 5-8, 2022, Prep Day - Travel to the Skagit Valley, WA. Log in and send us Location: South side of Mount Hood. These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. For travel insurance or Global Rescue membership. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys . Rising to a height of 9,131 feet, Mt. Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. Burlington, WA 98233, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . With over 40 years of history on the mountain RMI is . COPYRIGHT 2014-2022 THE MOUNTAIN BUREAU. If there is a trail, use iteven if it means taking the 37 switchbacks instead of heading straight to your climb. For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit. Shuksan is located in the North Cascades National Park at the edge of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. Snow North Face AI2-3 Mod. Itinerary Notes A one hour climbing skills training will be taught. The approach to high camp via hiking and easy rock climbing in a series of chimneys takes 6 hours. Trail may be snow covered in early season. Approach Time to Camp: 5-6 hours. We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. permits. This will help reduce smells and animal visits to your camp. Shuksan. Please prepare your meals prior to your climb. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. I knew that physical endurance wouldn't be an issue, we had all the gear, and the weather was going to be acceptable at a minimum. Do not underestimate the importance of climbing-specific training. I decided to go with a pre-rigged rappel with clove hitches between each climber on the anchor to make it as stress free as possible. The cloud layer pushing up against the mountain made for a dramatic sunset. The last pitch was long, and I hit the end of the 50m rope I was on; however by the time I got to the end it was just class 3 so I put a micro-traxion on a piece near the top and had Rob, who was belaying me, just start climbing to make it the last 15-20 feet to the top anchor. After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. From our alpine bivy, we turn to alpine ice, glacier travel, steep snow climbing, more glacier travel, and eventually alpine rock climbing . Above Fisher Chimneys. updates, images, or resources. If you are in rocky or mineral soil without other good options, bury your waste in a shallow hole. The Fisher Chimneys route has it all. The Mountain Bureau secures backcountry permit reservations with the National Park Service for all of our scheduled climbs so you dont have to worry about access. We started Saturday afternoon and headed to lake Ann to make camp. We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. Jul. Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid-summer climbs on Mount Shuksan when conditions are expected to be dry. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. Summit day begins with a pre-dawn start and a climb up Winnie's Slide on moderate snow and ice. Day 3: Descend the Fisher Chimneys, hike out. We recommend that you bring a variety of snack food to eat while moving (about 150-200 calories each break). Fisher Chimneys or North Face Climbs. more information on current conditions Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. . Bivy sites just below the Chimneys proper are snow free. No summit is ever worth injury or death. Scramble before Fisher Chimneys, 07/15/2019. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world with its . Vertical Gain Hiking: 3,500 feet Gully had good rap slings and rings. LINKSContact UsThe Bureau BlogPrivate Guiding RatesTerms and ConditionsFair-Trade-Living-WageOur GuidesPartnersAdvocacyOur PilotsTrip InsuranceFitness TrainingCOVID-19 InformationFor Guides, Festivals & Special EventsMazama Rock FestIndex Climbers FestivalCascadia SplitfestRockToberOutdoors@. Both Joe and Rob looked at the first section of class 4 and seemed like they wanted to ask if we were going to rope up, so I quickly started scrambling to keep the momentum going and show that it wasnt as intimidating as it looked. To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. These items are required for our Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneyclimb. Photo by Blitzo. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys & the North Face are done on a private (1:1) or small, private group basis. It had softened significantly, and we had been moving about 10 hours at this point, so I didnt think Joe and Rob wanted to solo downclimb at this point. I listed Rob as the alternate trip leader on the permit since he would have an easier time skipping out of work early on Friday to make it to the ranger station in time to grab the permit. Turn left onto F&S Grade Road. Plan to depart the day after the climb ends. Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Generally considered a challenging route. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. Cross the slope, losing no more than 100 ft, and pick up the clear trail as it crosses heather slopes. These are wild places of true exploration, adventure, and often epic stories of physical challenge. Close Menu. Schedule: Day 1: Approach, climb the Fisher Chimneys, circumnavigate to the base of the North Face. July 22, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers. Northwest Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide service withinNorth Cascades National Park. Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. 1670 S Burlington Blvd Out of all of the ruggedly beautiful, non-volcanic mountains in the Pacific Northwest, Mt. Note: An adequately sized backpack is required. Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a crevasse, or smear it near your route or camp. Variations are possible, and even likely, in the chimneys. Last light as we exited the chimneys proper and continued on our descent. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. Our guides may turn around climbers who are unable to do so. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. This was also a great opportunity to show them how to build a releasable anchor using the second rope to be efficient with our anchor materials and get Joe climbing quickly without needing to tear down a separate anchor at each station. Mt. If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibilityfor any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. When you return from your adventure, you can submit a conditions report if you like-or, you can decide that some places are best when you discover them on your own. Learn to appreciate and respect this signature ritual of Cascades climbs. Flagging and webbing are trash, too Please read our Goals & Fitness guide for strategies to help you train for your climb. Many climbers, particularly those who are new to the sport, will benefit from a workout plan designed to prepare you for the rigors of mountaineering. What a beautiful place! While we packed up the tents another party arrived, happy to snag our spots for their evening bivy. There are also bivy sites above the chimneys, both above and below Winnie's Slide, with access to running water. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid. The Mountain Bureau LLC operates under Special Use Permits with the Mt. . This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Ascend the first chimney for about 200 ft. Below a difficult step exit right and continue up ridge. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. I wanted to get a complex route with glacier travel and technical rock under my belt this summer, so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher Chimneys with SE Ridge our objective. Take I-5 North towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. We recommend the following training resources: Evoke Endurance The mountain's name Shuksan comes from the Native American (Lummi tribe) word qsn, which means "high peak". We recommend a selection of sweet, sour and salty food. On this trip we will attempt the Fisher Chimney's . I might start keeping at least a few sheets of 'write in the rain' paper on me for future climbs. Headlamps on, we started the monotonous trail slog back to the cars. It wasnt late, so we had some time to decide. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. Shadows cast, I presume, by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we moved up the Sulphide glacier. Please read ourGuide Picksblog postfor gear recommendations by specific brands. We enjoy dinner and go to bed early for the next days climb. Having two ropes was great, but the 55m limitation from having a 60m and a 50m resulted in slightly imperfect linkups between every other rap station. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. The Northwest Forest Pass or the federal interagency recreation pass (America the Beautiful Pass) are honored at parking sites and are available at all ranger stations. We had a solid 4 hours of effort ahead of us back to the cars, but the respite from the sun was a welcome change of climate for the hike out. Note: Proper hardshell rain gear is required on all trips. Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling. Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount find out current ranger station hours, phone number, and location for the backcountry and climbing information station for the park. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet I was close to just planning a repeat of the alpine rock weekend in Mazama. Climbers must have the proper equipment, skills, and experience for a given route. Our day started out pretty early. Mount Shuksan via the Fischer Chimneys Approach. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. A Grading permit with fee, plans signed and sealed by an engineer, and an Escrow Account are . This route delivers engaging movement and incredible scenery from start to finish. Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Shuksan, which is generally regarded as the Sulphide Glacier route. The Northwest Rib is nearly unknown, and rarely climbed. Here, the 50/60m rope setup did not quite reach the '5th' rap station. Shuksan. Unfortunately, we were a good 15 minutes into it before I realized this, so we continued to route find our way up to the chimneys entrance on what was probably a less efficient path. Trip Date: July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 . The thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain. Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. Heading up the final slope to the start of the chimneys. Certainly, there are loose pieces here and there, but most of the true class 4 sections had fantastic holds and in-between there were minimal patches of unstable dirt/kitty litter/rubble. Joe making his way up the ridge. Rob taking in the elevation gained so far, looking down at the Lower Curtis glacier. The road Is closed a little bit before the official lake Ann trailhead but you can park in the lower lots and walk up ( less than half a mile). Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. Shuksan, Mt. Additionally, only one person (Joe) was available for that weekend. Aug 3. Do ask an experienced ranger how many piles of poop he or she has seen while on patrol, and you will realize that this problem is bigger than you want to think. Date changes may be requested at any time up to 45 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.Day 3 - Summit Day! Traverse for about 70 ft, then turn left up a side gully 100 ft to where the route tops out on the ridge. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. A mixed glacier and 4th class rock climb/scramble, a bit more challenging than the Sulphide Glacier route, and joining the Sulphide route on the summit pyramid. Mount Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys is one of the very classic Cascadian alpine routes up the arguably most iconic peak in North Cascades National Park. We have no idea if we were lucky or if there were several remaining permits left behind. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. July 15, 2019 Mount Shuksan / Fisher Chimneys Route Trail from Lake Ann TH to Lake Ann is snow free except a small snowpatch just before the lake. After driving through an hour of rain, we finally rolled in to Glacier. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. Log in and send us Rob scrambling up to the start of his first ever rock climb (of any kind! Day 2. Mt. Guidebooks Numerous popular climbing guidebooks are available for learning about routes and peaks in the park. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp At more than 500,000 acres, the North Cascades National Park consists of a lifetime of Alpine Mountaineering and Alpine Rock Climbing. Give us a call to check on current availability (541)312-9242. Group equipment (including tents, ropes, stoves, etc. Access to large portions of North Cascades National Park are limited and it is difficult in peak season to acquire access to popular climbs. We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. We descend our climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m . Take exit 232 from I-5 N, Turn right onto Cook Road, Head East to Sedro-Woolley Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). We lead the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimney Route at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio ensuring that you receive personal attention and hands-on instruction throughout the climb. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. Shuksan. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online atTheGuideHut.com. We are currently full for our 2023 dates and are accepting waitlist names at this time. Many a climber on a long, back-breaking approach has cursed thickets of devils club or slide alder or the clinging snags of downed trees. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. Hot Drinks:Coffee, Caffeinated Tea, Herbal Tea, Cocoa, Cider. Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. Despite the fact that Hells Highway was steeper than Winnies slide, the darkness helped mask the sense of exposure so I was able to just keep our party moving up the slope without needing to pull out pickets and do a running belay. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to camp at Lake Ann. 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